Story of Triund from Jewel of Dharamsala to Public Toilet of the World

Triund-Hill-Jewel-of-Dharamsala.jpg

(As written and sent to us by Ravindra Thakur Chamba) त्रिउंड की कहानी धर्मसाला के गहने से भारत व दुनिया के सार्वजानिक शौचालय तक,

त्रिउंड हिल, द ज्वेल ऑफ़ धर्मसाला

त्रिउंड हिल, जिसकी वास्तविक ऊंचाई लगभग १०६३२ फ़ीट (10,632 फ़ीट) (3240.6336 मीटर्स) है और जिधर श्री कुणाल पत्थरी देवी जी का मंदिर भी है, इसके धरा में पहला कैम्पग्रॉउंड (कैंपिंग हेतु उपयुक्त जगह) त्रिउंड जिसकी ऊंचाई 9150 फ़ीट से 9414 फ़ीट के बीच है (2788.92 मीटर्स to 2869.387 मीटर्स )
दूसरा ऊँचा कैंपिंग हेतु उपयुक्त जगह सनो-लाइन कैफ़े जो की लगभग ३२५० ऊंचाई पर (3250 मीटर्स) है | (अब तो लाका में भी कैंपिंग होने लगी है)

त्रिउंड हिल के वास्तविक चोटी, जो की लगभग १०६३२ फ़ीट (10,632 ft ) है, तक सनो-लाइन कैफ़े के पीछे से पहुंचा जा सकता है |

इस ऊंचाई से आप त्रिउंड हिल, काँगड़ा घाटी व धर्मशाला का ३६० डिग्री मनोरंजक दृश्य (नजारों) का आनन्द ले सकते हो और साथ ही इधर से धौलाधार पहाड़िओं को काफी नजदीक से अनुभव कर सकते हो |

“कृपया प्रकृति में कूड़ा कचरा ना छोड़ें, अपना कचरा अपने साथ लेकर चलें और शहर के कचरा पेटि में डालें”
त्रिउंड हिल तक जाने को ट्रैकिंग नहीं बोला जा सकता है, क्यूंकि त्रिउंड का रास्ता काफी आसान है और सीधा भी है, बस जरुरत है तो “सावधान’ रहने की |

इसे आप हाईकिंग बोलें जो ज्यादा ठीक होगा, क्यूंकि ट्रैकिंग में तो आपको रास्ता ढूँढना पड़ता है और कई बार तो रास्ता बनाना भी पड़ता है |

त्रिउंड वाले रास्ते में किसी का खो जाना काफी मुश्किल है, जब तक की कोई चाह कर ना खो जाये, बस एक बात का ध्यान रखें की रास्ता भारी बर्फ़बारी से ना ढका हो और आप हमेशा सावधान रहें |

समय के साथ त्रिउंड हिल और इसके आस पास के मनोरंजक स्थान अपनी सुंदरता खोते जा रहे हैं |

और इसके लिए हम सब जिम्मेदार हैं, एक तो पर्यटकों की संख्या पर कोई रोक नहीं, दूसरे लोभी व्यवसायी और ट्रेवल एजेंसी, साथ ही वन विभाग और हिमाचल प्रदेश पर्यटन विभाग का गैर-जिम्मेदाराना व्यव्हार |

लगातार होती कैंपिंग से त्रिउंड की जमीन से हरी भरी घास गायब होती जा रही है और उसकी जगह भूर -भूरी मिट्टी निकलती जा रही है |

साथ ही शौच की कोई व्यवस्था ना होने से भी त्रिउंड और दूसरे कैंपिंग स्थानों में काफी परेशानी होती है | पर्यटक खुले में ही शौच करतें हैं जिससे गन्दगी फैलती जा रही है |

त्रिउंड, करेरी व अन्य स्थानों में खुले में शौच से पारम्परिक गद्दी भेड़ पालकों को भी काफी परेशानी का सामना करना पड़ता है |

खुले में शौच का समाधान है बायो टॉयलेट, लेकिन सम्बंधित विभाग को इसका या तो पता नहीं या कोई इरादा नहीं |

खुले में शौच के साथ साथ ज्यादातर लापरवाह पढ़े लिखे स्मार्टफोन व एप्पल आई-फ़ोन धारी पर्यटक भी अपना कूड़ा कचरा इधर उधर फ़ेंक जाते और अपने सभ्य होने का परिचय दे जातें हैं, इनके साथ कुछ व्यवसायी भी अपना कुछ कचरा नीचे घाटी में फ़ेंक देते हैं |

कूड़ा कचरा उठाने के लिए कुछ NGO जातें भी हैं, परन्तु NGO इसका समाधान नहीं |

इसके लिए हर पर्यटक और व्यवसायी को अपनी जिम्मेदारी उठानी पड़ेगी, अपने हिस्से का कचरा अपने साथ उठा कर खुद मक्लिओडगंज (McLeodGanj) के कूड़ा पेटि में डालना चाहिए,

और व्यवसायिओं को भी अपना कचरा खुद घोड़े पर उठवा कर मक्लिओडगंज तक पहुँचाना चाहिए
(जिस धरती माता से अपनी कमाई कर रहे हो, उसकी साफ़ सफाई व सुंदरता के लिए इतना तो कर ही सकते हैं)|

कुछ जागरूक पर्यटकों के अनुसार पहाड़िओं में शराब वाइन बियर आदि का सेवन करने से ठण्ड कम लगती है और कुछ होते हैं जो की टेलीविज़न में बॉलीवुड के सितारों द्वारा रुपयों के लिए दिखाए गए तथाकथित ताकत बढ़ाने वाले ड्रिंक्स जैसे “रेड बुल”, माउंटेन दू” “गेटोरेड” (Red Bull Gatorade Mountain Dew) आदि के शौकीन होतें हैं |

(वैसे इन तथाकथित ताकत बढ़ाने वाले ड्रिंक्स से कुछ फायदा तो होता नहीं) फिर भी लोग ड्रिंक्स पि कर खली डब्बे या कैन रास्ते में या घाटी के नीचे फ़ेंक जाते हैं और अपने सभ्य होने के कई निशान छोड़ जाते हैं |

दूसरी तरफ वाइन बियर पिने वाले लोग….ये लोग भारी बोतल ले तो जातें हैं पर एक खाली बोतल वापिस नहीं ला सकते…अपने पीछे कैंपसाइट में छोड़ आते हैं और कुछ तो एक कदम आगे बढ़ जाते हैं और शराब की खाली बोतल को पत्थरो में तोड़ कर चल पड़ते हैं |

वैसे पहाड़ो में हाईकिंग, ट्रैकिंग या कैंपिंग करतें समय शराब पीना उतना ही खतरनाक साबित हो सकता है जैसे दिन के समय रेगिस्तान में काले कपडे पहन कर पिने का पानी लिए बिना पैदल सफर करना |

एक जागरूक पर्वतारोही, हाइकर व ट्रैक्केर कभी भी पहाड़िओं में शराब का सेवन नहीं करता |
कभी समय हुआ करता था जब त्रिउंड या करेरी जैसे जगहों में लोग शांति, एकांत और प्रकृति का आनंद लेने के लिए जाया करते थे, परन्तु अब ज्यादातर लोग गिलासीआं लगाने और लाउड स्पीकर से दूसरे लोगो की शांति को ख़राब करने जाते हैं |

त्रिउंड हिल अब धर्मसाला का गहने से ज्यादा भारत इंडिया और संसार का सार्वजानिक शौचालय बनता जा रहा है |

और यही बात भारत के दूसरे प्रदेशों व जिलों में स्तिथ पर्यटन स्थानों के साथ हो रहा है….और अगर विदेशों के पर्यटन स्थानों की बात करें तो उनकी हालत भारत के पर्यटन स्थानों से कई सो गुना अधिक सुन्दर है |

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English text

Triund Hill, The Jewel of Dharamsala
Triund Hill, with its actual top point at 10,632 feet (3240.6336 meters) and temple of Kunal Pathri Devi hosts a ridge and the first camp-site Triund ranging between 9150 ft to 9414 ft (2788.92 to 2869.387 m)

The second high camp-site, SnowLine Café, is at around 3250 meters. One can trek to the real top point that is 10,632 ft (3240.6336 m) from the backside of SnowLine Cafe.

From this top point you can enjoy 360° panoramic views of Triund Hill, Kangra Valley and wider view of Dhauladhar Mountains.

Rather than terming Trekking to Triund, it is more like Hiking as the trail is properly marked with 100% visibility and no chance of getting lost (unless one tries to get lost intentionally).

In Trekking you have to trace the trails and trek and sometimes do bush-whacking to make new trail, while in Hiking your just need to follow the laid out trek and trails.
With time and tide Triund Hill and its neighboring campgrounds are slowly losing their charm all thanks to unchecked tourists flow and greedy businessmen and travel agencies! The careless attitude of Forest Department and Tourism Department just adds to woes!

The green meadows of Triund Hill are giving in to the continuous camping and tent pitching, resulting in green grass being replaced by top brown soil. Also open defecating is another major issue beside the garbage left behind by the tourists and the garbage tossed down the valley by all kind of vendors in Triund.
To tackle open defecating, there are good options like dry pits to or all weather Bio Toilets, but the concerned authorities seem to have no idea or interest.
As of littering by tourists…NGO do their part but that is not the answer…tourists visiting such serene places must understand their responsibility towards Nature and cleanliness of the same.

All tourists especially the Indians and the locals are well educated and smart enough but when it comes about cleanliness, not all act practically.

Most of them toss off or leave their garbage (water bottles, liquor bottles or some even smash the bottles thus create more of trouble).

First of all if you are really a hiker or mountaineer, then you will never take alcohol on mountains (the tale that claims “alcohol helps in cold” is nothing more than a myth).

Not so long time back, a day hike or night camping in Triund Hill, Kareri Lake was like solitude and for peaceful moments but now it is more of show off and taking shots of energy drinks and hard drinks with heavy volume speakers blaring noise in campsite and on trails…causing nuisance and troubling fellow tourists or hikers who are there to enjoy the company of the mountains and nature.

More over at present Triund has turned from the Jewel of Dharamshala to open public toilet of India and the World

Mountains Love

Enjoying Indrahar Pass -

Mountains Love

 

This is not about the height or difficulty level of Mountain Pass….it’s more than that! 

I got up early by 03:30 am to get ready for my third High Mountain but first long duration and length hike with all ration and cooking stuff on backpack. Left home around 5:40 am and was at Dramman around 06:15 am and the good thing was like election campaign days and marriage functions, for all taxis were engaged, so I’d to kill myself at Dramman for almost 2 hours and finally at 8:30 am got the lift up to Kandwari….

I remember my first high mountain hike of Indrahar Pass in Dhauladhar Mountain Range..during my first climb and stay in Indrahar Jot, the feeling I had was just like a child has once he/she sits on the shoulders of parents and seeing the views around that are generally barred owing to once height!

Pir Panjal Range and ManiMahesh Kailash Peak Chamb

Pir Panjal Range and ManiMahesh Kailash Peak Chamba

But before my climb to Indrahar Pass I’d been invited and confined only to Triund and Snowline cafe of Triund Hill for many many times, many times…even Lahesh Cave was far for me…but then on July 19th 2011 with a hint from Dhauladhar, I finally dared to climb up to Lahesh Cave through thick fog humanly alone but accompanied by mystic sounds coming from melting glaciers waterfall and since I had no clue of Lahesh Cave, I just followed the Red Arrows (here Om letter has nothing to do with Religion)

Om Letter with Red Arrow Marks

Om Letter with Red Arrow Marks

but soon they also vanished in thick fog and all I could hear was the mysterious sound of glacier waterfall (just like some women/girl singing with smooth and thin voice)!

Never judge a Mountain and Hill by it’s height!

It was only in August 2013, when I was accompanied by Gordon Cole (his was also first climb for Lahesh Cave) we reached the same spot where I’d lost the Red Arrows in thick fog and had seen only the glacier waterfall, I realized that on July 2011, I was standing right in front of the Lahesh Cave but could not see the cave due to thick fog!

Leftover Glacier Waterfall in front of Lahesh Cave

Left over Glacier Waterfall in front of Lahesh Cave

Mountains O Mountains, mountains love have fascinated my soul ever since I opened my eyes to this amazing planet and was of 2 feet height and during my stay in Dharamsala things just went like crazy, the sight of Dhauladhar and Triund Hill were so tempting I’ve no words to explain but since I’d no company that time so i could not think of climbing up..but the night of December 31st, 2000 and a badly planned group hike to Triund Hill was a nightmare, but even after a cold feet night in the caves of Triund, the first campground of Triund Hill, I enjoyed the morning views of Dhauladhar and TriundHill.

But that joy was short, as after consuming water stored in kerosene can made my tummy go mad and we were forced to climb down early in the morning…and that mismanaged trek to Triund re-ignited my desire of Solo Hill walks and post that year I went hiking to Triund infinite number of times all the way from Chandigarh (I’m not trying to impress and ignore many other hikers and tea stall owners in Triund).

But every time I’d been to Triund, always gazed at the Mun Peak and tried to locate Indrahar Pass. Even from the Temple of Kunal Pathri Devi (located at the real top of Triund Hill), it was only gazing Mun Peak and tracing Indrahar Pass.

Temple of Kunal Pathri Devi at real top of Triund Hill

Temple of Kunal Pathri Devi at real top of Triund Hill

Every time, I only got directional words towards the trail to Indrahar Pass from cafe owners in Triund, the first campground of TriundHill..and finally on August 2013 another unplanned trek to Lahesh Cave with Gordon Cole also with thick fog we managed to reach Lahesh Cave and further were followed and accompanied in by Manu Singh Panwar and his friends in Lahesh Cave (now all were new on this trail).

Manu and I took the lead and followed the Red Arrows and we were tailed by Gordon Cole and friends. On trail we were greeted by another stream of thick fog and mild rain and bit of hail…we took shelter under overhang boulders, wherever we could find and then a blue hole appeared through thick black clouds giving us hope and strength to keep on climbing and trekking.

Here I must thank Rijul SherGill (Dhauladhar Trekker) and other trekkers for sharing photographs of Indrahar Pass and the temple of Jota Wali Mata a top.

Jota Wali Mata at Indrahar Pass

Jota Wali Mata at Indrahar Pass

After trekking through boulders, fallen rocks and crawling through stairs like trail we got the sight of Trishula and that re-energized us.
As a welcome gift Dhauladhar again showered us with thin hail and mild mild rain but with cold winds…and finally we were hugging Indrahar Pass in Dhauladhar Mountain Range and were blessed by Jota Wali Mata.

“Respect Nature, please do not throw your garbage in Nature”

Amazing views, you have to see it to feel it….it was still raining and fog was climbing up from Chamba side thus barring the views of Pir Panjal Range and Triund Hill and after spending about 45 minutes, we decided to climb down and luckily one of our friend slipped over the moving rock on trail but was gifted with life by sacrificing an injury to his finger….and we were back in Snow-Line Cafe for sharing our experiences and some folk song numbers on Guitar by Manu Singh…and my second call to Indrahar Pass was on October 2013 with Raman Sharma of Simla and this time the views were all crystal clear and we spent a good 01:30 hours at Indrahar Pass, enjoying the company of Dhauladhar, Jota Wali Mata and bright Sun shine for the tan…we even got the views of  Pir Panjal Range, the trail to Kuarsi and sight of Holy home of SHIVA and PARVATI the MANIMAHESH KAILASH PEAK and many other peaks.

So back in Kandbari and so much awaited climb for Waru Pass.

We burned most of our energy from a steep trail with a Speedy Race to Satchaali the base camp for Waru Jot. As per standards of Hiking, this was not hiking but a race. By the time we reached the base camp, I was tired to the bones with tummy going nuts. Lessons I learned – (A) “Don’t drink water from every source!” (B) Walk with steady steps and not run.

“Never walk or climb mountains and hills as a race, rather be like a shepherd, who guides his flock of sheep and herd of goat.

Base of Waru Pass ahead Satchali

Base of Waru Pass ahead Satchali

“Never walk or climb mountains and hills as a race, rather be like a shepherd, who guides his flock of sheep and herd of goat. Enjoy the walk and the views, keeping a tab on Sun shine”

The thick snow on trail to Waru Pass from the base was just like, you must not Hurry and have Patience, Observe , Learn and once you are ready then come to me…..that’s what Waru Pass also sounded saying to me…just like Indrahar Pass had taught me, before letting me hug Dhauladhar and this is also what GOD tries to teach us humans to Learn and Purify yourself before Salvation and Moksha from the cycle of Birth and Rebirth ~

Again I don’t want to Prove anything to Anyone and I am not Above Nature also, I have no Grudge to anyone (it’s not easy to overcome this but Work is in Progress)  So I will come again…..